Explosive Air

Bloged in aircompressorparts.air-compressor-guide.info by itbsuperrich Sunday June 22, 2008

Have you considered your air compressor as a potential bomb?

If you have not, then you better!

Although air compressors are built to withstand high pressures,
and will have all the necessary relief valves to take care of
normal occurring overpressures, explosion involving fire
propagation is another matter.

How can a fire occur in an air compressor?

In order to understand the phenomenon of explosion, we
have to understand the nature of fire, because, after all, an
explosion is a very rapid propagation of fire.

A fire will only start whenever three conditions are met - fuel,
oxygen and heat.

An air compressor when operating will have a very rich supply of
oxygen already in place - pressurized oxygen.

Where do we get the fuel?

If you use oil lubricated air compressors, the lubricating oil
can become the source of fuel. It can also be in the form of
carbon dust. Carbon is formed when oil is heated to high
temperatures.

How is it possible to have high temperatures to ignite the
combustible mixture?

There can be a lot of reasons - lack of lubrication due to oil
deterioration, reduced lubricating quality of the oil, oil pump
mechanism fault, oil filter choked, worn out parts leading to
lessen oil pressures, etc. Whenever there is a hotspot sufficient
to ignite the combustible mixture an explosion will occur. That
is the extreme case.

Let’s see what can happen that can lead to that extreme case of
an explosion.

All the above reasons for lubrication failure or deterioration
will gradually cause the machine to operate poorly, wear out the
moving parts, cause oil spills and carry over of the oil in the
air passages and increased heat built-up.

Now comes the cooling part. Is there a lack of cooling? If the
high temperatures due to rubbing of parts from the above are not
cooled down sufficiently, the heat will build up. The
intercoolers play a very important role in removing the heat?

There are also many other reasons for the lack of cooling.

When the heat transfer surfaces have been coated by films of
scale or carbon it will definitely affect the cooling process.
The heating surfaces may have been reduced due to choked passages
for the cooling medium in the heat exchanger. The cooling medium
itself may be too hot probably due to a fault in another machine
like the cooling tower where the heat can be taken away to the
atmosphere.

The flow of coolant can sometimes be the culprit. When the
cooling pump fails, or the driving belt snaps there will be a
lack of coolant flow. One must also find out whether the valves
for coolant have been accidentally closed or not.

Very often, the effects build upon one another in a vicious cycle
- poor heat transfer leads to more heat that carbonizes more oil
which coats the heat transfer surfaces more…which leads to
worse heat transfer…

Therefore use oil lubricated air compressors with caution. If
your air compressors have been running for a long time, chances
are, your air compressor pipelines may have already accumulated a
sizable amount of oil carried over together with the air flow
during operation.

Does your air compressor work non-stop? Is the inter-cooler or
the after-cooler efficient? Is your compressed air hot? These are
the questions you have to ask yourself.

The oil film in the pipes turns to carbon with heat. The
oxygen-rich and moist atmosphere inside the pipes can turn the
oil into acids that can further deteriorate the oil to form other
organic compounds, perhaps some highly flammable products.

It just needs a spark or a hot spot to ignite this.

Boom!!

Did I frighten you?

What you need is good preventive maintenance. An air compressor
working at peak condition with good cooling, good lubricating
pressures, and good lubricant and good parts should give
trouble-free performance throughout its lifetime.

Sometimes the compressor may have reached the point of no return
- coated coolers leading to high temperatures that lead to more
coated cooling surfaces that lead to higher temperatures… In
this case it is safer to discard the compressor altogether and
obtain an entirely new compressor unit. It could be more
economical - and safer!

If you do that, do ensure that preventive maintenance is done
regularly to keep the unit at peak operating conditions all the
time.

An explosion in an air compressor can have grave consequences.
Don’t take any chances. Perform regular preventive maintenance or
buy a new unit before an explosion occurs.

Until next time

Locate good air compressors for your garage and workshop here:

Eastwood

Many years of working experience in Marine, Facilities,
Construction has given the author material for writing e-books
and articles related to engineering, and management.

Subscribe to facworld ezine

More information at Marine Engineer

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6 Top Reasons why Air Conditioners Leak Water

Bloged in aircompressorparts.air-compressor-guide.info by itbsuperrich Friday June 13, 2008

An air conditioners primary job is to remove moisture from the room to give us a feeling of comfort. During this process they create a lot of water. How much, is dependent upon humidity in the air, size of the air conditioner, its operating efficiency, and whether it was properly installed.

Water removed from the air during operation falls down the cooling coil and drops into the base. From here it follows channels or passages to the rear of air conditioner. Some of the water is lifted up by the fan blade and used to cool the heating coil, while most proceeds to the rear. Once at the rear it drops out of the base and onto the ground. That is, if everything is working perfectly.

The reality of window air conditioners is that they can leak water. One that leaks can drive you crazy trying to find the cause of the problem. The following are a few suggestions of the most common reasons why water leakage occurs.

1. Improperly installed.

A window air conditioner must be slightly lower at the rear than the front. This allows the water being removed from the room to drain to the back of the machine. A difference of one inch is sufficient. This is always the first thing to check. Many are improperly installed in the haste to get relief from the heat. If installed too low at front the water will flow into the room rather than outside. If installed too low at rear, water can roll out front edges before has chance to exit towards rear drain.

2. Icing up.

Water being de-humidified can turn to ice if there are problems with the cooling system. There are many reasons for an air conditioner to produce ice. Remove front grille while machine is operating. If ice is present on the cooling coil you will probably need service. For more information see our other article: Why window Air Conditioners Ice up.

3. Air leakage around air conditioner.

If warm air is able to enter around the air conditioner it will encounter cooler, dryer air. When they meet condensation will occur. If water leaking from front of air conditioner inspect to see if dripping from body of machine, or water droplets clinging to front area. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then use flashlight to check under front edge of base. Small water droplets here indicate an air leakage problem. Add foam insulation to stop warm air from infiltrating.

4. Drain hole blocked.

Rear of air conditioner base has a drain hole or groove to allow water to escape. If becomes blocked water can back up. To test, operate machine for 30 minutes and then inspect if draining properly. If appears blocked use a small piece of wood to open drain hole at rear of metal base. CAUTION: Never be tempted to drill holes into the air conditioner body to relieve water pooling. Severe damage can result.

5. Internal drains blocked.

There are small passageways that allow water to drain from front of air conditioner to the rear. If they become blocked water will pool at front of machine and overflow onto floor. If this happens the air conditioner will require removal from window and servicing.

6. Outside temperature too cold.
This occurs at end of cooling season. If outside temperatures drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night the cooling coil may ice up. If no leakage at bedtime but water in front of machine in morning, suspect this problem. If this problem suspected turn off machine before bedtime and restart as day warms. Alternately, operate machine at night with selector switch in ‘fan only’ position. This will circulate room air during night but not allow cooling.

Copyright 2005 by Donald Grummett. All right reserved.
Donald Grummett is an appliance service manager in Ottawa, Canada.
In the trade over 30 years as a technician, business owner, and technical trainer. Learn more invaluable information about your household appliances by
visiting http://www.mgservices.ca

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DIY Methods to Save on Utilities

Bloged in aircompressorparts.air-compressor-guide.info by itbsuperrich Monday May 26, 2008

If your utility bill is out of control, you need to consider ways to tame the beast. There are plenty of do it yourself [DIY] ways to save on utilities.

DIY Methods to Save on Utilities

Utility costs for heating, cooling and electricity are near record highs. Worse, they are expected to rise fairly dramatically over the next few years. Since you will live in a residence for the rest of your life, making small changes to save money on utilities will save you tens of thousands of dollars, if not more. Here are some areas to check out and fix to start saving some bucks.

Leaks and drafts from the interior of your home to the exterior can easily double your utility bill. There are a couple of obvious areas to check out such as windows, frames around doors, fireplaces and entrances to attics. Less obvious spots to check include gaps around electric outlets, mail slots, pipes, spaces around baseboards and gaps around air conditioners where the interface with the exterior. If you find gaps, caulking can often take care of the problem or you can pursue a weekend DIY repair.

Insulation in a home can be a real problem when it comes to utilities. Since I hope to avoid getting sued, let me just suggest builders tend to use the minimum amount and grade of insulation required by regulations when building homes. If you live in a tract home, this may be all the more true.

If you seal the areas where you have drafts, but the heater or air conditioner is still turning on every few minutes, insulation may be a problem. Inspecting insulation isn’t the easiest or most comfortable task. The easiest method is to first climb into the attic and see if there is any exposed insulation. Unfortunately, the grade of insulation in the ceiling may not match the grade in the walls.

To check the walls, the best bet is to find a small are where you might have a hole. Closets are typical spots. If you have kids, look for areas where a doorknob has punched through a wall. If none of these are available, you can remove a small surface area in a closet. Once done, determine if the entire area is filled with insulation as well as the R grade of your insulation. Compare it to recommended grades in your area. You can then patch the area and nobody will be the wiser. If all else fails, get a thermal inspection for a professional.

Most people are not going to need to blow out their insulation. Doing so will help, but sealing a home will go a long way to cutting your utility costs. With this in mind, give your home the once over.

Rick Chapo is with SolarCompanies.com, a directory of solar energy companies. Visit us to read more articles on solar power and home energy audit checklist.

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