:: Air Compressor Parts ::

The government often tries to influence our behavior through taxes. The tax credit for new energy efficient cooling systems in our homes is one example.

As part of the provisions in the Energy Policy Act 2005, homeowners are entitled to claim tax credits on use of a few energy saving items. They include the use of energy saving windows, doors, roofing, furnace and boiler, water heater and air conditioner. As energy becomes scarcer by the day, it is essential to conserve as much energy as possible. The government, by way of giving tax credits, also encourages using alternate sources of energy.

Using energy efficient air conditioning systems is one of the items that qualify for tax credit. Individuals who install this type of air conditioner are eligible for a tax credit of up to $300. The models that qualify are obviously costlier than the ordinary ones. However, this calculation would show that it is advisable to install a new energy saving air conditioner. Even if you save just $10 a month on average by way of electricity bills it comes to $120 for a year. Add to that the tax credit of $300, your net saving is $420. This amount should be good enough to prod a homeowner into buying an energy efficient air-conditioner.

Of course, not all air conditioners are eligible for a tax credit. Even, not all Energy Star air conditioners qualify, only some do. Very efficient central air conditioners qualify for the tax credit if they meet the following criteria:

1. The Energy Efficiency Ratio has to be 13.0 or higher (in some states its 12.5).

2. Certified technician needs to install the equipment.

3. The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) has to be 15.

SEER measures performance throughout the season and EER measures performance on a very hot day. Central Air conditioning systems must meet the standards set by the Consortium of Energy Efficiency (CEE). The specifications for each state vary slightly.

The tax credit for energy efficient cooling systems in our home is just another step in saving money on both your energy bill and taxes. Since tax credits are reduced from the actual amount of tax you owe, not your gross income, you should strongly consider taking advantage of this one.

Richard A. Chapo is with Business Tax Recovery - providing information on taxes.

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If you are one of the many folks that have purchased or are considering purchasing a home compressor, you do want to have a bit of information about compressed air filters.

Compressing air generates a reservoir (receiver / air tank) full of wet, dirty, hot compressed air.

As the air leaves the tank, it carries the crud and free water along with it. It also carries a great deal of water vapour. As the compressed air travels to your appliance (air drill / air grinder / blow gun / air brush - what have you?) the compressed air in the air line cools, and some of the water vapour will condense into free water.

That’s why just having a small compressed air filter at the discharge of the compressor tank may not be enough. Even though the unit at the compressor will take much of the debris and free water from the air there, it can’t remove the vapour. Even though you think your air is being filtered, by the time the air gets to your application, water may flowing out of the exhaust ports and onto your work piece, along with the used compressed air.

Of course, if water flowing or blowing onto your work bothers you just a tad :~} , you’ll want to add another compressed air filter just before you use the air.

Many standard compressed air filters have 5 micron filter elements. If you want to know how big that is, check out the details in the Filter page on my web site.

You can purchase compressed air filters with much finer elements, and you can purchase elements that are coarser, allowing much larger particulates through. Much larger is a relative term. We’re still dealing with pretty small bits here.

If you decide that your application needs extensive air filtration, get a micro-filter element for the additional air filter you will need. The new one might filter particulates down to .005 micron, and if you don’t have a 5 micron unit upstream from it to take out the larger bits, the finer element will plug up really quickly, which is why you’ll need the additional filter housing.

You can purchase compressed air filter elements that will strip oil from the compressed air, these known as coalescent filters. Some piston / reciprocating, and other types of compressors too, let oil “blow by” the piston seals into the compressed air tank, and this oil will get blown downstream as you use compressed air. Compressor oil is not good for most tools that have Buna-N type seals. The compressor lubricating oil might ‘eat’ the seals.

Each compressed air filter you install has a negative affect on the available air pressure at your tool. Pressure drop is a reality in compressed air plumbing. You could supply compressed air at 100 PSI into the discharge air line from your tank, and by the time it gets to your tool, all you have available might be 85 PSI. The flow of compressed air through the air lines, the elbows, the ‘T’s and yes, the air filters, all create pressure drop.

If you are using your compressor a lot (make sure you know it’s duty cycle so that you don’t burn it out) then it would be beneficial to have an auto-drain of some sort on the air filter. A float type will open up and let water and crud flow out when the water in the bowl gets to a certain level. An electric auto-drain will be plugged into a 120 Volt outlet, and will open the bowl drain at preset intervals for a preset length of time. You set the electric auto-drain to the interval necessary to keep the filter bowl fairly empty.

If the water and debris in the filter bowl gets above a certain level in the bowl of the filter, it floods the element, and now your compressed air supply is pumping water and debris through the element downstream to your tool.

Did you know that water rusts metal air tool innards, and that water droplets on your work piece will not allow the beautiful paint job you are air brushing on to it to adhere? Of course you did! That’s why you need a compressed air filter.

One more thing. If your air consumption is great enough then even a filter at your tool may not stop the water vapour streaming along with your compressed air from condensing onto your work piece or in your air tool as the air cools. If that is a problem for you, you will need an air line dryer.

Drop me a email from my site if you have any questions. I’ll be happy to respond.

Bill Wade’s experience in compressed air and other industries spans decades; from field sales positions through to the corporate presidential office. His sales agency represents a select group of industrial firms. Mr. Wade writes about all facets of compressed air at http://www.about-air-compressors.com.

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A thermostat is an apparatus for maintaining the temperature of a system within a particular range by directly or indirectly controlling the flow of heat energy into or out of the system. All air conditioners have thermostats that can be manually operated or automatically preprogrammed to work at regulating the room temperature. There are many ways in which you can use an air conditioner thermostat effectively.

One of the most successful yet economical ways to reduce your air conditioning costs is to adjust the thermostat setting on the air conditioner. The savings are more noteworthy when you set your thermostat at 78 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. For each degree you raise the thermostat setting, you reduce seasonal cooling costs by 7 percent to 10 percent. In doing so, you can use ceiling fans in addition to the air conditioner and thus, save a lot of money.

Most centrally located air conditioner thermostats are equipped with two fan settings, ‘on’ and ‘auto’. When the thermostat setting is set to ‘on’ the fan runs constantly and when it is set to ‘auto’ the fan runs only during cooling cycles when the air conditioner compressor is in use. When the air conditioner is in use all day, the cooling compressor only operates about 50 percent of the time, that is, for about 12 hours. The extra fan operating time that occurs when the thermostat is set to ‘on’ can add roughly $25 to monthly air conditioning bills. Using the ‘auto’ setting, alternatively, saves energy and money because the fan operates fewer hours. Besides achieving energy and cost savings, the ‘auto’ setting also promotes more comfort by offering better humidity control as moisture removed during the cooling cycle is re-circulated back into the home while the compressor is off.

Thus, thermostats play an important role in the cost and function of an AC.

Air Conditioner Rentals provides detailed information on air conditioner rentals, portable air conditioner rentals, window air conditionar rentals, RV air conditioner rentals and more. Air Conditioner Rentals is affiliated with Window Air Conditioners.

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